The Chad (VaultPSU)

Followed the DIY and a few fotki pictures, but seems the rear rotors are not wanting to budge. Rotors look STOCK (as in original) at 75,000+ miles now, pads are ceramic and replaced just before i bought the car a year ago (20,000 miles). All non contact parts of the rotor, including the set screw are HEAVILY rusted. Impossible to get set screw out, even though i have been spraying it with penetrator lube for the last 2 hours, will probably have to carefully drill out.

All 4 (2 carrier, 2 caliper) bolts in calipers have been removed, parking brake is NOT on, yet Calipers have only budged about 3/4 of an inch off the rotor. Ceramic pads have eaten the rotors and there are huge ruts in the rotors with a small 1mm lip on outer edge of rotor.

Really could use some suggestions for removal...


Going to put the BBK on the front this week, planned on repainting rear calipers today to match. Didnt realize the rear brakes were this bad. Recommendations on replacement rotors and pads for rear? I have stock rear pads from Mr Schwing... but at that time I planned on selling the TT. Going to keep her now.

Can I buy rotors for the rear from a local parts store or should i invest into something better? (Not looking for anything slotted or drilled, they are rear brakes, its pointless!)

BTTI

Dynamite.

The Chad (VaultPSU)

Dont have any... but about to try a BFH!

Scenic Driver

Big screwdriver/prybar, sometimes it takes a bit of force to get the rears off

sTTevo

Pads should slip out, then calipers should come right off.
For rotor screw, use the proper size Phillips bit. You may have been using too small a bit. Better to use a socket-mounted bit that snaps onto your ratchet wrench. Screw drivers do not allow enough torque.
Once screw is out, tap back of rotor with a mallet, spin rotor 90 degrees and tap some more. I used a sledge hammer to get off my fronts.

pmarcian

One good rap with impact hammer will get the screws out http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WMR%2DW2500P& amp;N=700+0&autoview=sku.
Soak around the wheel hub with liquid wrench (and go watch a movie). When you put the rotors back on coat the hub with anti-seize. Watch out for the back caliper. Had a bear getting it compressed. Don't use the expensive caliper tools - it may stick. Pick up one of these at Autozone http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=WMR%2DW80621& amp;N=700+0&autoview=sku
Loosen cap on master cylinder and you should be good to go.
Just replaced all brakes with Brembo slotted rotors(got a good deal), Tyrol stiffening pins, stainless lines, Valvoline Synpower Dot 4 fluid, and ceramic pads.

The Chad (VaultPSU)

Would I be foolish to go to Autozone and pick up rotors?

pmarcian

Autozone here in Houston doesn't stock many parts for the TT - call around. I know that Pep Boys here stocked them. The rear brakes don't add very much to stopping power so OE is fine.