OldSchool AG

I'm sure this has been covered, but I want to be extremely clear before I start stressing my car in the mountains or on the track. Is there any harm in swapping upper & lower rear arms? Mine has the unequal length arms (lower position originally has notches, and was ~1/8" longer), so I swapped them on the left side to compare. It makes a big difference in camber. Yes I know, still needs adjustment, but, much better.

Left side, control arms swapped:
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/type89q/rearcamber_left.jpg">

Right side, unchanged:
<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/type89q/rearcamber_right.jpg">

TTTEXAN

pics are dark on my end

garlicTTown

OMG. I think I broke my neck trying to look at those pics.

OldSchool AG

i was only trying to show the camber... quickie, then had to go swap the other side.

;-)

Audiboy

compared to what you have of about 4 degrees of camber and probably 3/16" or more of toe in.

BTDT. But I have recently installed CPP's and corrected my rear camber to -1 degree with a twist, Toe is close to 0. Car felt really good handling wise in the AutoX - except when the electronics takes over and starts controlling my brakes and throttle on it's own :/

OldSchool AG

Probably doesn't matter, but did you return the other remaining arm to its original place?

My gut says the best setup would be to leave the longer arm on top and put the CPP on bottom.

Audiboy

<center><img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~ego69/_images/aboy_cppTTarm.jpg"></center><p>
your gut says well. I swaped out the top ones with bottom, then pulled in additional using the CPP. I was targeting 0 toe and this was the best way to do it. My ride height is 25.5 from ground to top of fender using 235/40 18 tires. It's pretty linear until about 26.5" when I start to get 0 camber and then around 28" is when it goes positive ~.5

Very solid piece btw

OldSchool AG

Awesome... thanks!