What they don't tell you when swapping out ECU for the first time.
02-13-2000, 09:24 AM
#1
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What they don't tell you when swapping out ECU for the first time.
1) Wear a pair of mechanix gloves...the plastic cowl will cut, scrape and scratch the back of your right hand.
2) Wedge the butt of a screwdriver between the plactic cowl and the metal to gain unimpeded access to ECU (next to the clear plactic covering VIN#).
3) Would someone open the hood on their stock car and let me know on this: Look at the flap covering the pollen filter (you have to lift this flap to gain access to ECU). There is a short, 1-1 1/2" rubber section at the top of the cut towards the windshield. I think the flap, when lifted high enough to gain access to ECU tears along this rubber section, it would appear by design. Point is, I think it leaves a tattle-tell sign someone has been in this compartment. Is your short, rubber section described intact or torn?
2) Wedge the butt of a screwdriver between the plactic cowl and the metal to gain unimpeded access to ECU (next to the clear plactic covering VIN#).
3) Would someone open the hood on their stock car and let me know on this: Look at the flap covering the pollen filter (you have to lift this flap to gain access to ECU). There is a short, 1-1 1/2" rubber section at the top of the cut towards the windshield. I think the flap, when lifted high enough to gain access to ECU tears along this rubber section, it would appear by design. Point is, I think it leaves a tattle-tell sign someone has been in this compartment. Is your short, rubber section described intact or torn?
02-13-2000, 01:01 PM
#4
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Re: If dealer mechanic need but glance. Yes but if you have a spare ECU. They cannot just fact
ually nail you. That kind of damage would happen if Audi went there as well. That would be my position. And with Audi's history, poor maint. in the US etc. They really do not have much of a position to stand on. Unless you have chipped your only ECU, them you are caught. By all of the postings it sounds like they really are not looking nor are they specifically interested in this persuit. A spare ECU is the way to go though
02-13-2000, 01:03 PM
#5
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My wiper cover was ripped when I first got the TT.
Dealer replaced mine under warranty but new replacement also had the tear beyond the cut.
This cover BTW is also the access to the pollen filter for replacement so I wouldn't worry too much about the tear signaling anything to the dealer. The true tell-tale sign might be when you bend back the metal tab on the ECU to remove it.
This cover BTW is also the access to the pollen filter for replacement so I wouldn't worry too much about the tear signaling anything to the dealer. The true tell-tale sign might be when you bend back the metal tab on the ECU to remove it.
02-14-2000, 06:54 AM
#6
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Some tips from one who has done ECU swaps dozens, if not hundreds of times...
First off I've looked EVERYWHERE under the windshield valance and cannot find the "flap" you're speaking of. Only thing that comes close to maybe being it is at the extreme left end of the WW valance (facing the car from the front) and is riveted to the valance itself and serves as a moisture/debris barrier for the pollen filter. Its about a 3" square flap with a bold or fat "L" shape. Other than that I have NO clue as to what it might be, or that my early model FWD doesnt have it. And I didnt take this search lightly. If its there I would definately have found or seen it. And the flap I just mentioned is not torn or threatening to tear. Its just rivet at the top and hangs loosely to cover the extreme left edge of that filter... completely intact with zero trauma.
As far as that WW valance scratching your hand... you are SO right. Tho in actuality what it is is a couple of cable ties holding up the water line and two short electrical wires. The cable ties were installed and cut so their sharp end was left facing downward and will cut/scratch and gouge your hand while you're doing the swap. Next time you're in there just spin them around so their sharp end is facing upward and between the line they hold and the underside of the wiper valance. Additionally theres a smal flap of hard plastic that acts as a guide/retainer that the cable ties are looped thru to keep the water line secured and it too has an annoying, yet less scratchy surface. If you run a full length piece of black duct tape (double thickness)along that piece of plastic, full-length, your days of wearing gloves and being scratched are over... forever. Also to expedite ECU swapping you can also de-tangle that mass of black cloth wrapped wires that are always in your way and with some clever cable tie-work of your own, tie them loosely back out of the ECU's path. Then never push the retainer clip back on the ECU's locking pin. The friction-fit rail assembly is enuf to hold the ECU in place without the clip.
Once these things are done you can swap ECU's, with the forward bolt on the hood-mounting linkage holding the valance up and out your way with no screwdriver "wedge." You'll have PLENTY of clearance and the ECU swap becomes literally a 1+ minute ordeal... with no more torn up hands ever again. Dont believe it? Spend ten minutes doing the things I mentioned, then make a "dry-run." Only takes 1+ minute to find out.
As far as that WW valance scratching your hand... you are SO right. Tho in actuality what it is is a couple of cable ties holding up the water line and two short electrical wires. The cable ties were installed and cut so their sharp end was left facing downward and will cut/scratch and gouge your hand while you're doing the swap. Next time you're in there just spin them around so their sharp end is facing upward and between the line they hold and the underside of the wiper valance. Additionally theres a smal flap of hard plastic that acts as a guide/retainer that the cable ties are looped thru to keep the water line secured and it too has an annoying, yet less scratchy surface. If you run a full length piece of black duct tape (double thickness)along that piece of plastic, full-length, your days of wearing gloves and being scratched are over... forever. Also to expedite ECU swapping you can also de-tangle that mass of black cloth wrapped wires that are always in your way and with some clever cable tie-work of your own, tie them loosely back out of the ECU's path. Then never push the retainer clip back on the ECU's locking pin. The friction-fit rail assembly is enuf to hold the ECU in place without the clip.
Once these things are done you can swap ECU's, with the forward bolt on the hood-mounting linkage holding the valance up and out your way with no screwdriver "wedge." You'll have PLENTY of clearance and the ECU swap becomes literally a 1+ minute ordeal... with no more torn up hands ever again. Dont believe it? Spend ten minutes doing the things I mentioned, then make a "dry-run." Only takes 1+ minute to find out.
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