Joe Smith

I read the FAQ. I plan on jacking the front using a hockey puck on the jack and putting the jack stands on the "frame rails".

Now the rear?

I can manage to jack it up at the pinch weld with the hockey puck/2x4 method. But where oh where do you place the jackstands?

Thank you,
Alex

XCLR8TT

some deformation. I put my jack stands on the front under the LCA. On the rear you set under the LCA as well.

J. Patterson

Well, actually I do the rear from the hitch receiver, but you don't likely have one of those. The rear is real light if you put the front stands under the door mirrors. I use a 18" long 2X4 to sit just behind the pinch weld and can place the jack under it and put the jack stand beside the jack on the same 2X4.

OldSchool AG

subframe to lower control arm connection to be specific. don't wanna bend the control arm

Joe Smith

If I placed a jack stand on the pinch weld, I would place it lengthwise BEHIND the weld. Not across it, as this would cause the weld to bend and deform, such as when jacking it up with no hockey puck.

I assume the "jacking point" is actually behind the weld, as the factory jack appears to place all the load behind it, the pinch weld is simply used to stabilize it.

Is this correct?

So when I notch the hockey puck, one side should end up taller to accomplish this?

DumpTTruck

I always use the 'frame rails'. No deformation to report.

XCLR8TT

Mine did the first time I used them. Since then I've always gone off suspension parts.

JohnLZ7W

and place stands either under the short cross piece of the LCA or under the subframe near where the rear LCA bush is, there's a big chunky piece of metal there.

For the back I lift from the rear subframe cross member, you can get to it from straight behind the car. Then I put stands on the rear jack points, those are much more solid than the fronts and don't deform or crush.

SparTTan

Same here

VARATEK

I first roll the car over 2 x 4's on the rear wheels to get a bit of height. Then...

there is a small divot (say that fast 10 times) in the sill of the body about 5" back from the
front wheel wells and about 1" above the bottom of the sill. Going inward to the body there is the body joint rail front to rear. I use a 10" x 3" and 1" thick (or so) piece of hardwood set under the rail, (front to rear) centered on that divot. You can rout a groove in the board if you want but I don't find it necessary. Make up two boards. I use a floor jack on each side (but you can do with one) raising the front sides alternately up till you can put jackstands under the inner "frame rails" that run front to rear and about 5" back from the front of the rail. I use a piece of plywood 2 x 10 x 3/4" thick between the rail and the stand.

In the rear you can use a 5 x 5" piece of hardwood (has to be hardwood front and rear..no soft woods)...or a plastic puck ...under the crossmember pad under the rear diff. Jack stands go under the lower trailing arms (suspension arms) as far back as you can place them and dont crush bend the brake hoses. i use duct tape on the jack stands ...no wood there.