logix

Living in sunny Florida almost demands window tinting but I have always wondered what happens to the rear window defroster when it comes time to replace the tint. Never owned a vehicle long enough to find out. My wifes 89 CRX is tinted (all windows except rear) with rear louvers (sp) and my Rover is still tint free but the TT with its black interior is really asking for some tinting but I know tints wear out and have to be replaced (done this twice on the CRX in the last 12 years). I am afraid of how you would remove the tint with a rear window defroster in the way (normally just use a razor blade). Anyone have any experience with replacing your rear window tint on a window with a defroster on it??? Thanks.

TTrophy

ALWAYS get a reputable tinter to do your work. More than anything, you get what you pay for! People who say "its all the same" it is NOT! A friend in the buisness said he would save the old transfer film(??)and through some sort of soaking and re-applying of this, he could remove the film. I've also seen people use steel wool (stupid) instead of scrapers to get film off. (yes, steel wool will do what you think to the glass-scratch it) which brings me full circle, shop around and get references.

Epicurus

There are basically two kinds of tints, the dyed film and a metallicized film. The dyed films are the worst because those are the ones that tend to turn purple and bubble in the sun after a few years. Always, i mean always, go with a metallicized film with lifetime warranty. There are several manufacturers out there that have these (3m for example is a good brand). As far as removing film from your rear window. A good method is to spray a good ammonia based solvent (409) to sweat the adheasive off the tint. But you have to be careful when using a razor blade to remove the tint because of cutting the defroster lines. That is why some tinters use SOS pads or something similar to "brush" off the glu from the window and this prevents it from cutting the defroster lines. I wouldn't go out and get a steel wool, but a pad that is "rough" enough to do the job (probably one of those green and yellow ones). If it is still hard to remove the glue, just keep spraying the ammonia based solvent on (may smell a bit, but will do the job)<p><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/AudiWorldPics/2000/sig.jpg ">
2001 TT Roadster 225 Silver/gray
Prem/Bose/Nav

TTinGables

Where do you live? I'm in Fla. too, and I'm having my windows tinted next week.

rmg

tell me if the metallicized film actually has metal in it? If it does have metal wouldn't it cut down the range on my V-1 radar detector?

Would appreciate your thoughts on this since I've been considering getting my A6 4.2 tinted and I do not want to loose any range on my detector.

Thanks

logix

I'm all the way up in Jacksonville

TTinGables

Ask ObsessTT or Astral69 for tinting advice, they're up in your neck of the woods. :-)

Epicurus

Yes the film does have metal in it (this is why it is so effective in reflecting heat), and as for the question on your radar detector? The films may have some adverse affects due to the reflectivity of the metals. In fact, I supplied a link that answers your question for your V-1 (and most radar detectors).

http://www.valentine1.com/lab/MikesLabRpt2.asp<p><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/AudiWorldPics/2000/sig.jpg ">
2001 TT Roadster 225 Silver/gray
Prem/Bose/Nav

Fastlane

The best tint IMHO is the Llumar Centaur Titanium series.
rememBer that since your interior is black, the tint will appear darker
due to the darkness of the interior. Any reputable tint installer
should be able to tint the rear window in one piece, don't allow a multiple
section rear window. Also, request micro edges on the windows since they are frameless. I had my NSX tinted, with a one-piece rear window for $150 in
S. Florida.

rmg

Re: Thanks for the answer