TTempted

took the car to the dealership and just got it back... the brake pedal travels way too far to be safe... my feelings are that if you push the brake pedal ~4 inches, you should be practically thrown through the windshield... not the case, and the service writer tells me it's due to the soft nature of the pads.

secondly, if any of you have been following my troubles, the rear brakes pads were replaced and after 40 miles, it looks like the pads are already worn past the bevels... I don't understand

Dealership claims they took everything apart and checked the calipers. "Everything looks fine."

What's the problem with ecs rotors and mintex red box pads? Are red box pads really THAT soft?

I'm going to put some more miles on the car, but up to this point, I'm very dissatisfied with the braking performance of this car and its current setup.

kodeTT

adjusted correctly. I have a set of ECS rotors and don't have that problem...although I'm running Axxis brake pads. The adjustment on the pedal feel doesn't sound right also.

This one reason why I didn't do the install myself...brakes are one thing that I don't trust myself with if anything goes sour. Hope you resolve your issues...hopefully, someone with more brake knowledge.

RafaTT

and the pads should not be worn at all after 40 miles, one thing that may happen is that the pad material gets 'compacted'(about 3/64" tops) once it starts working, heats up and adapts to the rotor, which is normal. By the way, did the rotors got resurfaced? that can be a problem too if not done because the pads will take a lot more material to adjust to a polished rotor, meanwhile braking power will be greatly reduced.

Hope this helps.

R

Jim TT

...'pump up the brakes' it can be because one or more piston/s is/are hanging up . For example when you rebuild brake calipers and put in new seals; the new seals can act a little like springs pulling the piston away from the pad backing plate. You then have to pump the bakes pedal to remove the clearance that normally is not there (some Porsche 911 brakes I have done have been like this until parts wear in). But I take it you did not have the brake calipers rebuilt with new seals so that is not the cause. Another brake issue that can cause problems like this is a corroded piston. If you go too long between brake service and wear you pads down so the pistons are at the extreme limit of their extension, corrosion is more likely, salt ads to the problem. What can happen is the piston hangs up instead of moving smoothly over the seal. It can hang up in an extended position and cause your pads or rub against the rotors with more that normal pressure (when brakes are not applied) or corrosion can cause a hang up in an unexpended position which could cause your problem. It seems your service guy's inference is that the pads are SO soft they deflect like a sponge thus causing the travel in question; we know that is not the case. Your calipers need to be looked at closely and repaired or replaced. The other thing to look at is the master cylinder, or for air in your brake lines. Finally make sure your calipers float with no hang ups, if not disassemble and lube the pins with high temp molly brake grease. JIM

coasTTal

There is no such thing as a soft natured pad that one could tell during regular braking. A soft pedal on the track often follows hard extensive braking and is generally the brake fluid vaporizing(boiling) and not being uncompressible.

Due to a time constraint I one time let a mechanic bleed my brakes. I hopped in the car and the pedal would go 1/2 way to the floor. I went home and properly bled my brakes and returned the pedal to firm and engaging at the top.

I just redid brakes on a Passat and a Cabrio and flushed the brakes. Both cars got Mintex Redbox and they work fine and have a firm strong pedal. After driving them each for 200 miles I took them out and did a bedding of the brakes. All is fine.

I have Mintex reds on my Stoptechs and they work great around town.

I suggest you do a full flush of your brake system. After doing and you've put 200 miles on the TT, go bed the brakes with 4-6 ea. 60-20 hard braking cycles. You may smell pad material and see some smoke. That is OK. Make sure that you do not stop, or put on the parking brake immediately after doing this. You will need to go for a nice 15 min. drive on the interstate without using your brakes so they may cool down. You should then find that the rotors are a bit discolored (bluish). If so you have deposited a nice bed of pad material on the rotor. After all has cooled down, you should have a firmer pedal and the car should stop just fine.

If this does not work then you have a caliper problem.

Also, verify that you have no fluid leaking from the caliper bleed screw.

I'll be putting my race pads on the Stoptechs tonight and doing a similar, but more aggressive rebed. I love to get that stinky brake smell.

Good Luck

sharkTT

NT

Sully

should be compensated with some freebie

Bob W.

....sounds like you need a good bleeding. And I don't mean the medieval barber type of bleeding.

TTschwing

You had problems immediately. Just don't know what it is...Doesn't sound like the dealer did the inspection you thought he did...<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1046776.phtml">Original problem post</a></li></ul>

TTempted

suggestions?