budpalumbo

anyone have a spec on maf readings @idle?

Uwe@Ross-Tech.com

If you want to test your MAF, you should do at full throttle in the RPM range where the engine is producing peak power.

-Uwe-

budpalumbo

I would like to, but car won't run up to speed, so the vag info on testing block 204 is worthless as well. Idle is all I have, thats why I need idle readings. Do you have info for that block?(204) Either idle specs or what each channel is looking at would help. Thanks for the input though. Looking forward to buying the bim-com, put the gt-1 purchase on hold for now.

gb944

and would be willing to tell you what my readings are at idle. What measuring blocks do you want, and under what circumstances (cold engine, warm engine, etc.)?

Lemme know.

budpalumbo

group 3,4, and 204 hot, at idle. Thank you.

gb944

So, here's what I recorded on my car this morning at idle, warmed up in the garage, not otherwise driven:

003 680 rpm
4.06 to 4.50 g/s
1.2% load
8.8 to 15 degrees BTDC

004 680 rpm
13.860 vdc
85.0 degrees C coolant temp
21.0 degrees C intake air temp

204 680 rpm
370.0 mbar
990.0 mbar
960.0 mbar

Hope this helps...

gb

UnoDosTurbosQuattro

Do you think the MAF alone is causing your problems? Or do you have bigger issues that are preventing you from running higher than idle?

budpalumbo

thanks

budpalumbo

I may have a bad absolute pressure sensor too, but the maf readings are way off. I'm at 10g/s @idle, other readings are same. Used car lot said they swapped maf's, other car ran fine, this one was still messed up, but I don't think they ran/readapted it long enough. I just need some numbers to back me up. With the maf unplugged the car is driveable, but no boost. With it hooked up it will try to boost but starts to buck so hard it isn't mobile.