audifantic

Hey everyone, I am new here and need some help.
I did an auto scan and got some fault codes. I have a 2003 TT awd 225hp. I have checked all the codes and fixed some problems. My battery went dead as you can see in some codes. My brake light switch was faulty and has been replaced by me. I installed a new battery while that installation. I sanded and checked all ground connections.

I also checked all fuses and they are all good. My radio is in safe mode at the moment, I just have to drive it to the dealer to get the radio code. Oh yea I assume I need a new driver door lock cause the key wont turn, seems to be stuck.


Now the frustrating part I am having. My coolant gauge is going crazy. It will go all the way to the H after 10 min's of the car running. I have checked the measuring block for coolant temp and it seems like it is reading around 90c to 100c when the car is running. I assume that is normal? I noticed for 30 seconds after I shut the car off that the coolant gauge stays at the 1/4 line then goes to zero after.

Does anyone have any suggestions to fix this problem.

PS: I did the DTM output test with no problems coming up.

Thank You
Kevin


Monday,11,June,2007,17:36:39:21227
VAG-COM Version: Release 704.1
Data version: 20070422
Chassis Type: 8N - Audi TT
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 17 22 35 37 45 55 56 76 77

VIN: TRUWT28N331******
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 8N0-906-018.LBL
Part No: 8N0 906 018 BB
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G *X001
Coding: 07710
Shop #: WSC 01236


3 Faults Found:
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16955 - Brake Switch (F): Implausible Signal
P0571 - 35-00 - -
17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer
P1570 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8N0-907-379.LBL
Part No: 8N0 907 379 H
Component: ESP ALLRAD MK60 0101
Coding: 0022544
Shop #: WSC 01236

3 Faults Found:
00526 - Brake Light Switch-F
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00495 - ESP-Sensor Unit (G419); Supply Voltage
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: None
Part No: 8N0 820 043 A
Component: TT-KLIMAVOLLAUTOMAT D03
Coding: 00140
Shop #: WSC 01236

2 Faults Found:
00787 - Temperature Sensor in Fresh Air intake duct (G89)
29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
00779 - Outside Air Temp Sensor (G17)
29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: None
Part No: 8N0 959 655 B
Component: Airbag Front+Seite 6000
Coding: 01103
Shop #: WSC 01236

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8Nx-920-xxx-17.LBL
Part No: 8N1 920 980 A
Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRS. M73 D04
Coding: 07244
Shop #: WSC 08165


2 Faults Found:
01304 - Radio
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
01305 - Databus for Infotainment
37-10 - Faulty - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 22: AWD Labels: 02D-900-554.LBL
Part No: 02D 900 554 C
Component: HALDEX LSC ECC 0010

1 Fault Found:
00526 - Brake Light Switch-F
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: None
Part No: 8N8 962 267 F
Component: Central Lock/Alarm D08
Coding: 15884
Shop #: WSC 01236

5 Faults Found:
01374 - Alarm triggered by Terminal 15
35-00 - -
00668 - Supply Voltage Terminal 30
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
00955 - Key 1
09-00 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed
01570 - Turn-Off Delay; Terminal 15
29-10 - Short to Ground - Intermittent
01559 - Drivers Door
58-10 - Can't Lock - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 55: Xenon Range Labels: 4B0-907-357-AUT.LBL
Part No: 4B0 907 357
Component: LEUCHTWEITEREGLER D004
Coding: 00010
Shop #: WSC 01236

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: None
Part No: 4B0 035 186 H
Component: concert II NP2 0050
Coding: 00302
Shop #: WSC 00000

No fault code found.

theaudidoctor

I would make sure the engine is NOT overheatung! My prefered method is; verify coolant level and warm-up, check temp of engine w/infa-red temp gun as it's warming up. It should not exceed about 205f. I shoot (temp gun) the radiator hoses and on the head somewhere on the intake side. The exhaust side gets prety hot with the manifold and turbo. If all is good, take it for a short drive and stop periodicly to verify the temp. If all is still ok, I would get a gauge temp sender and try replaceing that first (cheap, easy fix). If not It is most likely your cluster assembly. I have seen weird things happen w/the gauges but usually the temp,fuel and the tach together, either going crazy or not working at all. I think the cluster is about $400 for an exchange unit (parts not available seperatly). A dealer will have to change it due to your imobilizer (be sure to bring ALL your keys for codeing). You may want them to diagnose it as well, that way if they confirm it's the problem, change it and it does not fix it... Hope it's the sender!

As for the rest of your codes, clear them all, drive it for awhile and just see if anything else returns.

There may be a radio code in your radio owners manual or somewhere in your manual packet. It's about the size of a credit card with a 4 diget code. Or maybe there somewhere just writen down (look for a 4 diget code). The proceedure for "unsafeing" is in the manual also. As a last attempt before going to the dealer, if you pull your radio out it might be on a sticker or hand writen on the case somewhere.

audifantic

Thanks "theaudidoctor" for the reply

Today I bought a temp sensor and put it in sucessfully. I noticed though that it didnt help the problem, temp gauge still goes now 1 click below the H.


I checked the measuring block again for the temp, and it went up to 83c , does anyone know what temp the fans should kick on? I turned on the a/c and the fans worked.

Can anyone help me? I hope its not the cluster; Im praying

Thanks for all your help so far

Kevin

theaudidoctor

Before you go anything else as I sugested in my first post, you NEED TO VERIFY IF THE ENGINE IS REALLY RUNNING HOT, OR IF YOU HAVE A GAUGE PROBLEM! The diagnosis will be totaly different depending on which one it is! DON'T TAKE DISPLAY FIELD READINGS AS FACT WITHOUT VERIFYING! THEY CAN AND DO LIE!

When you say changed the temp sensor, you changed the temp sensor for the temp gauge and not the (green/2 prong?) sensor for the ECM fuel injection calculations, right? I am not sure because I don't have a TT manual or car here to look at, but The ECM sensor should be located close to the cylinder head in a water pipe. And I think the sensor for the gauge is in the lower radiator hose close to the radiator.

Also, when you say measuring block for the temp., are you looking at coolant temp. in the #01 ECM contoler (green 2 prong) or are you looking at coolant temp. in the #17 Inst. cluster? (This display field would be for your gauge)? They ARE different sensors/systems.

I don't know the turn on temp. for the fans, but you need to verify the ACTUAL temp. first. All temp readings with infa-red gun near sensors should be close to display fields for that sensor. Also, I think the fans are contoled by a fan control unit on your TT.

audifantic

Hey "theaudidoctor"

Thanks for the reply, I havent checked the temp with the infa-red gun yet, I have to purchase one.

The sensor I replaced which is called in the bentley manual is the "engine coolant temperature (ect) sensor" (green one).

I have been looking all over for the temp gauge sensor in the bentley manual and alldata manual and cant seem to find the location and/or procedure.

When I was talking about the measuring block for the temp I was refering to the address word (17) from the inst cluster that is function 003 for coolant temp. From this fuction I was getting at reading between 70c - 85c after I installed the new green sensor. But it is still not matching the temp gauge reading on the dash.

"theaudidoctor" where can I find information on the sensor for the gauge in the lower radiator hose?


Thanks
Kevin

theaudidoctor

may have sold you the green temp sensor for the ECM if you did not specify. These green sensors do go bad quite often so no harm done.

You should be able to find it in your Bently, if you don't find it in the inst. cluster section, look in the wireing diagram and verify wire colors with susspected sensors. You could also find the # (like G62) in the wireing diagram and then look it up under component locations. You can also disconnect susspected sensors and see if the gauge/measuring block reacts accordingly.

But back to first things first. YOU MUST DETERMIN if you have an electrical problem, or an overheat situation. Don't waste any more time or money chasing down sensors or an elect. problem when you could be in an actual overheat situation.

audifantic

I finally got the infa-red temp gun today. I did some pointing during warm up and till the needle met up with the H on the temp gauge.

The readings are as followed:

1) Coolant hose by the green sensor

Cold start = 90f
H Mark on Temp gauge = 197f - 205f


2) Radaitor Hose by Radaitor

H Mark on Temp gauge = 160f - 185f

3) Head of Motor

H Mark on Temp Gauge = 175f

4) Intake Manifold

H Mark on Temp Gauge = 175f

Found out that both fans do come on at around 200f

theaudidoctor

post correctly (you are seeing about <200f when gauge is showing hot), you do not have an actual overheat issue, it sounds like an elect problem.

So, now I would go back to my previous posts and chase down the temp sensor circut, but if I remember correctly, the temp reading with your scanner in the inst. cluster was like 175f or so (within range) when the gauge was showing hot. It sounds like it is a gauge/cluster problem. As previously stated you will have to go to a dealer for this. ONLY a dealer can code you imobilizer (bring ALL your keys!) But as a cheap easy thing to try you could change the sensor (not the green one).

BTW, ALWAYS check the basics first! In your case coolant level, battery voltage and grounds.

audifantic

Thanks "theaudidoctor" for all the help and replys.

I am a bit confused on this sensor issue. I have been looking at the bently and alldata manuals. These both resources mention about a G2 and G62 sensors. I check the component locations on these sensors and I get the same picture and location for both. And guess what this is where the green sensor goes.


Anyone with a TT 225hp know where the temp gauge sensor is?

theaudidoctor can you see how I am confused? , and you stating that it is a black sensor.


Is the Green sensor I replaced have both functions?

Also on the cluster question, cant I just send my cluster in to get rebuilt?

Thank You so much for your help so far


Kevin

theaudidoctor

with the Audi service manuals and conponent locations, etc. I am pretty sure G62 is your Temp sensor for the ECM and G2 is for the gauge. They are not the same but... prove me wrong. Disconnect the green (G62) sensor and see if the temp gauge is still working. If it quits I was wrong, if not (like I susspect)look for another sensor and disconnect it and see if the gauge quits. You can do this KOEO (Key On Engine Off)as the car does not need to run for the gauge to work. You may have to jack the car up and remove the air guide (plastic pan/tray under car) and look around, especially, in the lower rad. hose. If you do find a sensor in it, it is very likely G2.

No, to my knowledge there is no other source for rebuilding the clusters, or anyone besides the dealer haveing the ability to get the codes to set the imobilizer. They get this with their online VW/Audi GEKO or ETKA that only autherised dealers have access to. This has to be done any time you replace any component of imobilizer (cluster, ECM, reader, Key(s)).